Oaxacan Chicatana Ants (hormigas chicatanas) have a toasty, smoky, almost bacon-and-nut flavor, and gentle heat is the key to unlocking it.

• Toast them briefly in a dry skillet or comal for a minute or two until fragrant, being careful not to scorch them.
• Grind coarsely with salt to make a chicatana salt, great for rimming mezcal glasses or finishing tacos.
• Stir toasted ants into salsa, or blend them into a salsa de chicatana with chiles, garlic, and a bit of the toasting oil for real umami depth.
• A little goes a long way, so start light and taste as you go.